Poles Apart
by Sarah Porter | November 2024
“So, which one is better?” is a typical question I get when people find out I’ve been to both Antarctica and the Arctic. I usually reply with the quip, “Well, it all depends on whether you prefer penguins or polar bears.” But which of these polar regions stole my heart, and are they similar, or poles apart?
@Studio Ponant - Olivier Blaud
From curious penguins to majestic polar bears, surreal silence to staggering ice formations, Sarah’s firsthand experience offers insight and inspiration in equal measure.
A heartfelt thank you to Sarah for allowing us to share her journey. We hope her story helps you decide which pole pulls you most…
Geography
Understanding the differences between these two regions, that lie at opposite ends of the globe, starts with a simple geography lesson: Antarctica is a frozen continent surrounded by ocean, whereas the Arctic is frozen sea surrounded by land. The Arctic region extends over six countries—Canada, USA (Alaska), Denmark (Greenland), Russia, Norway and Iceland—all inhabited by various native communities. Antarctica, on the other hand, does not belong to any country and, although there are dozens of scientific bases, there are no permanent inhabitants. These differences shed light on why these regions are poles apart in so many ways.
Working for a small ship/expedition specialist company has not only improved my geographical knowledge of the world but also given me the opportunity to explore some remarkable places. Early in 2019, I ventured to Antarctica with French company Ponant. Antarctica was never on my bucket list—I am a self-professed ‘solar-powered’ traveller and would usually opt for warmer climates, holidays that involved scuba diving, snorkelling and fishing. None of that was on the itinerary for Antarctica, and I still believe I was something of a litmus test. The expedition leader on that trip had led over a hundred expeditions to the polar regions. My theory is that if they could get me to fall in love with Antarctica, anybody could.
There are three popular ways to head to the ‘white continent’: flying to South America and sailing south from Ushuaia through the Drake Passage (commonly referred to as the ‘Drake Lake’ or the ‘Drake Shake’ depending on sea conditions) to explore the Antarctic Peninsula; exploring this same area of Antarctica and adding on South Georgia and the Falkland Islands; or taking an epic voyage from Bluff through New Zealand’s Sub-Antarctic Islands to explore the Ross Sea region of Antarctica—a journey that can take four weeks.
@Studio Ponant - Olivier Blaud
Wildlife
My adventure followed the first itinerary—the most popular, and the most time- and cost-effective way to venture south. Fortunately, we experienced the ‘Drake Lake’ and made the crossing in about 36 hours. Stepping foot on land in the South Shetland Islands was my first preview of wildlife—penguins and seals covered the shoreline, and whales weren’t far off.
Wildlife is perhaps one of the biggest differences between the polar regions. Human contact is limited in Antarctica, which makes the animals fearless and somewhat inquisitive. Although we are told to stick to strict regulations and viewing distances, the wildlife didn’t get the memo—if you stand still, curious penguins may come right up to inspect your boots.
The word ‘Arctic’ is derived from the Greek word ‘arktos’, meaning ‘bear’, and one of the main reasons people want to visit the Arctic is to see polar bears, one of the largest predators on the planet. Arctic foxes, reindeer, walrus, musk ox, seals, and whales are also found in the north, as well as a variety of birdlife. However, with hunting pressures in the Arctic, animals can appear more wary.
Five years on from my first taste of the polar regions, I had the immense privilege of visiting the Arctic with a journey to East Greenland aboard the world’s only luxury icebreaker, Le Commandant Charcot. This was at the very beginning of the season, when no other vessels could break through the solid sea ice. We knew spotting a polar bear would be special, and on this voyage, we came across a whale carcass wedged between two ice sheets—a natural ‘buffet’ for polar bears. An astounding 68 polar bears gathered. It was a sight that even the captain and our Inuit ‘polar bear spotters’—indigenous hunters from Ittoqqortoormiit in Greenland—had never witnessed.
The different wildlife in the two polar regions also changes what’s possible on land. In Antarctica, landings are relatively frequent and safe—leopard seals aside. In the Arctic, the presence of polar bears requires extra safety precautions for all land-based excursions.
People
With six countries making up the Arctic region, there’s incredible diversity in culture, language, and traditions. Alongside these differences is a shared connection to the land through traditional livelihoods like hunting and fishing. Although we weren’t able to reach the small Greenlandic community of Ittoqqortoormiit (one of the world’s most remote) due to the solid ice, we were lucky to have two local Inuit hunters join us on board. Over morning coffee as they scanned for bears, I learned what it’s like to live in total darkness for much of the year and how, for nine months, their only access to the outside world is via helicopter.
Scoresby, the older of the two hunters, shared photos and stories of his family and community. Despite our vastly different lifestyles, we connected deeply. It was heartening to learn that the quota for polar bear hunting had already been reached—our 68 bears were safe.
While there are no permanent residents in Antarctica, I formed wonderful friendships with fellow travellers aboard L’Austral, and enjoyed conversations with scientists and researchers stationed at summer bases. Both polar regions have a rich history, and the ships’ expedition teams shared stories of great explorers—from Erik the Red in Greenland to Scott and Shackleton in Antarctica.
©Studio Ponant - Laurence Fischer
Ice
“Ice belongs in a glass—but never with whisky,” was one of my go-to lines before I visited the polar regions. Once there, I discovered just how captivating and complex ice can be.
On both voyages, I attended lectures on everything from wildlife to history—and ice. Surprisingly, the ice talks became some of my favourites. I learned about fast ice, first-year ice, brash ice, pack ice, and of course, icebergs.
Sea ice in the Arctic changes seasonally, freezing in winter and melting in summer. In contrast, Antarctica’s sea ice can spread far during winter, as it’s not constrained by surrounding land. Antarctica’s glaciers are also much larger, producing both tabular icebergs (from ice shelves) and massive non-tabular ones. Arctic icebergs, formed only from glaciers, are often more jagged but smaller overall.
I now have countless photos and videos of sea ice, bergs, and even glaciers calving into the ocean. Aboard Le Commandant Charcot, we cut through sea ice and broke through an eight-metre ice ridge. The vessel’s technology is astonishing—yet all operations are designed with the environment in mind, supporting critical research and discovery along the way.
Seasons
The seasons in each polar region also differ. Antarctica is only accessible in summer (November–March). Early in the season, you’ll find pristine landscapes, massive icebergs, and penguin courtship rituals. As the season progresses, whales return, temperatures warm slightly, and chicks hatch. Later in the season, the snow is less pristine—but the wildlife encounters are phenomenal.
Technically, the Arctic is accessible year-round. Summer is peak season, with long days and milder temperatures. The midnight sun takes getting used to (blackout curtains help), but the chance to watch polar bears at 3 a.m. in full daylight is unforgettable. In winter, visitors come seeking the northern lights, though the days are short and temperatures cold.
@Studio Ponant - Daniel Ernst
So, which one is better?
Our vivacious and passionate expedition leader aboard Le Commandant Charcot, Florence Kuyper, summed this up well for me over breakfast on our last day when I posed this very question. Florence, an expert in both regions, replied with contagious energy:
“Sarah, it’s much the same as asking whether you prefer red wine or white wine; whichever one, you just want more of it.”
It’s impossible to choose between Antarctica and the Arctic. The sense of vastness in both regions, the unexpected wildlife encounters—they reminded me of exploring Africa’s deserts, only this time in a zodiac instead of a safari jeep. The sound of silence is deafening, and something magical settles inside you.
My Arctic voyage—seeing 68 polar bears—might be my favourite journey. But Antarctica? That’s my favourite destination.
Just like red and white wine, I adore both polar bears and penguins. And I now want more of both. I’d return in a heartbeat, because I know I’ve only seen the very tip of the iceberg.
Ready to plan your own polar adventure?
Whether you’re drawn to Antarctica’s vast white wilderness or the wildlife wonders of the Arctic, your Wanderlust Travel Expert can help you find the perfect expedition. Get in touch today to start planning the journey of a lifetime.